Band Saw
I use the band saw to cut the blank, split it and to cut the flute to the right length when I tune it to the fundamental note.
There are tons of band saws available in all price categories starting from a few hundred bucks to thousands. I believe the Record Power band saw is a good compromise.
Maker: Record Power
Model: Sabre 350
Here is a link to the description of the saw: Link
Router
A router is used to create the mouth hole (half-round head 8 mm diameter), the SAC (round head 30 mm diameter, slow air chamber), the flu in the bird (flat straight head 12mm) and the bore (half-round head 30mm diameter). It allows very exact and straight hollowing.
The router is mounted under a router-table that allows a very precise guidance during straight and centered routing which is the use case for all steps in the way I build my flutes. That makes any custom jig obsolete.
Router
Maker: Dewalt
Model: 625E (Link)
Table
Maker: TREND
Model: CRT-MK3 (Link)
Milling Heads
Maker: tbd
Model: tbd
Scroll Saw
I use this scroll saw to cut out my birds. You can do this with any hand-saw but as you might see on this page …. I like powertools. I really like this saw and use it for a lot of fine detail sawing.
Maker: Hegner
Model: Multicut 2s (link)
Desktop CNC Machine
I use a desktop CNC by Sainsmart to cut the SAC, TSH and the finger holes. This machine became one of the most important tools to me. There are better CNC machine available but for my hobby needs this is more than enough and is very reliable.
Maker: Sainsmart
Model: Genmitsu PROVerXL 4030 (link)
Laser Engraver
A laser engraver can be used for a lot of cool stuff beside flute making. I had this for engraving leather wallets that I was making for quite some time as a hobby. For my flute journey I use it to cut ALL of the holes (finger holes) and rectangles (SAC exit, initial TSH). If you like the idea and have more space than me, I would advice you to look at bigger XY laser engravers. They can be cheaper than this one and even allow you to cut all finger holes perfectly centered without manually adjusting the flute inbetween. But I had this one, it packs small and has cool other features.
Maker: LaserPecker
Model: LaserPecker 2
Files
A set of juweler files is very handy for filing all smaller holes and especially the TSH (true sound hole). If you can, flatten one side of the files so you don’t accidently damage the opposite side of what your filing.
Finish
To create a beautiful finish for the flute I am using sanding paper with 120 grid, then clear wood filler, sanding paper from 120 up to 400 grid, a sanding sealer, then again 120 to 400 grid, MinWax Wipe On Poly, micromesh sanding paper up to 12000 grid and for the final polish I am using burnishing cream (in that order). I am using safety cloth to apply all coatings/liquids right on the lathe.
Name: Micromesh (link)
Name: Wood Filler Neutral (link)
Maker: Liberon
Name: Shellac Sanding Sealer (link)
Maker: Chestnut
Name: 60900 Wipe-On Poly Clear Gloss (link)
Maker: Minwax
Name: Melamine Lacquer Spray (link)
Make: Chestnut
Name: MicroMesh (link)
Maker: GC Abrasives
Name: Burnishing Cream (link)
Maker: Chestnut
Name: Safety Cloth (link)
Maker: Chestnut
Glue
For more explanation please refer to the glueing page.
Name: Titebond II (link) / III (link)
Maker: Titebond
Name: Wasserfest (link)
Maker: UHU
Other
Roraty Sander
I am using an rotary sander to sand the flu area (where the actual flue in the bird is touching the flute) to make sure it is absolutely flat and to round the flute edges in the flu area.
Maker: Bosch
Model: GEX 123-1 AE Professional (link)
Digital Calliper
Another super-valuable tool is a digital calliper which I use to measure most everything. I have several in every corner of my workshop.
Maker: Qfun
Model: Link
